Tonight I made dinner for BML and the babes while watching them hunt for bugs in the backyard and then took off for the bookstore and some alone time. I forget often my need to be alone, for quiet. My life is so noisy these days, a noise that I can't and won't change, the squeal of laughter followed by screams of pain as playtime turns into bite time, but I forget that I need to hear the quiet voice inside my head. The only place I could think of to go and spend too much money on a cup of coffee and sit and read and write and think was the bookstore. I found myself wandering with a hot cup running my hands over all of the new books, watching the people and conversations they were having, spending too long in the toy section wondering what the kids would enjoy the most, and then I realized how diligent you really do have to be to be alone. I found a spot in the crowded cafe....next time I will be on the lookout for a less popular hangout - though I loved being surrounded by the books - and just started writing. Writing and praying to be inspired. For my soul to awaken with curiosity and a driven desire to do what my God is requiring of me, for the confidence to believe in myself and the desire in my heart, for the courage to not sell myself short or downplay my abilities or offerings.
Backtrack. On the way to the bookstore I downloaded the newest podcast of This American Life ( i think it was a rerun from 10 years ago) called Notes on Camp. Both my mom and husband listen to this podcast regularly and both sent me a note to tell me how much I needed to listen. I loved it. Anyone who has ever gone to camp should listen, it speaks the truth. There is no place on Earth like camp. At camp, I felt like myself all the time. Free, thoughtful, adventurous, quiet and soft spoken, loud and extroverted, it was wonderful all of the time. I find myself often wanting to go back to that place, wanting that for my kids. And so part of my prayer at the bookstore was that there would be an opportunity that would open for me to give back to camp, to be involved again, to stir up the adventure that was always in store at camp. It always seemed to me that God was bigger there in the wide open air, in the wet grass, those damp cabins, the deafening waterfall - I want to find that place again. It's quiet there.
I prayed, and wrote, and I don't find myself to be a great pray-er so I'm glad I brought The Book of Common Prayer (growing up Episcopalian suits me) and found myself pouring over the prayers all laid out for you in the back of the book.
For Quiet Confidence:
O God of peace, who hast taught us that in returning and rest we shall be saved, in quietness and in confidence shall be our strength: By the might of the Spirit lift us, we pray thee, to thy presence, where we may be still and know that thou art God; through Jesus Christ our Lord. Amen.
Maybe for now, I can't live in the mountains of Tuxedo, NC, and I'm not nine anymore. But I can still make time to return to the quiet and rest, and be revived, and find the joy in my common life. "Find rest, O my soul, in God alone; my hope comes from Him." Psalm 62:5.
For Parents:
Almighty God, giver of life and love, bless these parents. Grant them wisdom and devotion in the ordering of their common life, that each may be to the other a strength in need, a counselor in perplexity, a comfort in sorrow, and a companion in joy. And so knit their wills together in your will and their spirits in your spirit, that they may live together in love and peace all the days of their life; through Jesus Christ our Lord. Amen.
My sister had a meeting yesterday with an old/new friend, who is the parent of one of my old campers years and years ago. I met her when she was nine and homesick...I hear she's addicted to camp now too, it has this way of sticking to your soul. Something will come of this, somehow I will find a way to mesh my desire for community in camp, for quietness and rest, and the joyful noise in my home. I welcome prayers & ideas & encouragement. Also, mom, as a side note, I think I'll reach for the Book of Common Prayer more often. Or plaster the prayers all over our home. Last one.
For the Good Use of Leisure:
Oh God, in the course of this busy life, give us times of refreshment and peach, and grant that we may so use our leisure to rebuild our bodies and renew our minds, that our spirits may be opened to the goodness of your creation; through Jesus Christ our Lord. Amen.
Some of my goals after tonight are to go to the woods - or something that can remind me of that space I cherished, to be quiet. To get in touch with old friends for ideas on how to get involved in camp given my limited time and resources. Listen to MY music, Bonnie Raitt, Eva Cassidy, Patty Griffin and less kids music (though I am enjoying the Kingdom Rock VBS songs that P makes me play over and over again.) Read more, watch less T.V. Stop reading if I am not enjoying a book. Take time for me - intentional time for me.
All in all, it was a good night. I feel rejuvenated to tackle tomorrow. I'll let you know how the camp things turns out. And while my kids are a huge part of my life, they shouldn't consume my whole life...so there are no updates or pictures here :) Next time.
Thursday, July 25
Friday, July 19
Sweet Summertime
I thought about going back to my last blog and reading what I wrote so that I could catch the 28 of you up - but that would waste about 20 minutes which is my allotted time for blogging. And generally I blog with my calendar in front of me so that I can try to remember our comings and goings, but that's not happening either. But you know what is coming HManifold??? A home tour!! Sort of...you'll get pictures of the rooms I have taken pictures of. It is taking a while, because lets be honest, who in the world has a clean house all at one time?? Certainly not us.
But first...confessions. And bullet lists. Why not?
- On occasion BML is out of town, or has meetings in the evening that turn into happy hours that go well into the night - and while I miss him... I really love catching up on my liberal talk shows. Oh how I love The Rachel Maddow show. It's true. Sorry to disappoint some of you, but I just can't hold it in any longer. I watched the one with Wendy Davis in Texas and the recent Supreme Court rulings. I even shed a tear or two. It was awesome.
- The kids carseats are disgusting. How do they even get so gross?? What happens back there? Most of the time I really don't think I want to know, and I know that it's my fault for basically throwing things back there at them so they won't fight each other. And it doesn't help that everyone brings something into the car and I am the only one that takes anything out.
- Recently, lots of my people have been going on trips. Which meant a couple weeks ago I headed to and from the airport kind of a lot. I actually found myself really enjoying the trip - particularly the picking people up part - I love living in Florida for that reason, that I get to be my people's airport pickups instead of them always picking me up. Plus the cell phone isn't a bad place to spend a quiet 20 minutes. Once though I drove Aunt T's car and she had an Avett brothers CD in there - I am so rarely in tune with good music these days so P and I enjoyed the new tunes.
- We have been swimming A LOT. My parents have a salt water pool now which I am pretty thankful for, otherwise my kids would have completely green hair. And even little L is learning to swim...as in she jumps in by herself or just launches herself off of the steps so you better be ready to catch her - and P since he usually comes barreling in right behind her. It's the only way to spend the hot hot afternoons this summer. And popsicles - we eat a lot of popsicles.
- I recently read a book I think titled The Year of Biblical Womanhood - which I thought was pretty funny most of the time but it made several mentioned of another book Radical Homemaking. This book was on my to-read list on my phone that I never access so I checked it out of the library one time. I returned it without coming even close to finishing it because I quickly realized that since I couldn't sew, didn't have the time, patience, or energy to grow all of my own food and then can it - among other things. I did however, start making my own laundry detergent which mostly cleans our clothes when I remember to put them in the dryer (or else we walk around all week smelling of mildew...this has happened several times, its disgusting). But I'm having a stain problem with the kids clothes...back to the drawing board....which means buying stain remover. No biggie. Trying to cut down on the budget you know.
- I think little L would prefer to be raised by her Yay Yay. She was most distraught when Yay Yay and Granddad were on vacation for a couple of weeks and were no where to be found when we went swimming. When we picked them up from the airport both kids insisted Yay Yay sit in between their carseats and L hung on for dear life the whole ride home. For the next several days she was hysterical whenever Yay Yay would leave...Don't go again Yay Yay! She's just getting used to having you back in town!
- I love summer. Love summer. I love the 4th of July. I hope that FTD might blog a little about it - because while I can find the pictures, it'll take me forever but I'll try to include some here. We are carrying on the neighborhood tradition of a parade - bring your own decorated float which consisted this year of strollers, radio flyers, bikes, & wagons. We had grandparents, parents, kids, neighbors, aunts, & dogs all stopping traffic around the lake. We ended the parade with popcorn, popsicles & capri suns - it was awesome. It also was a looooooong time until fireworks. Sweet L fell asleep in my arms that night which has never happened in her life. Good times.
Thats all I have from here friends! Just kidding. I'm pregnant. Yep, baby #3 is on the way! Most of the 18 of you knew this already I think. I'm due Jan. 2nd which makes me 16 weeks today I am pretty sure! Yikes, its hard to keep track. So probably the guest room which I will show you in a minute will give way to a new baby room, but for now we'll plan on keeping the little one in with us for a bit and then decide if the kids will share a room or if we'll wait on that for a little while. I'm feeling pretty good these days, tired, but nothing out of the ordinary. Everytime I ask P if he wants a brother or a sister he responds with "What's a brother?" and "Two, there's two of them!" Needless to say, we are also now in the market for a new car....BML can't wait to be a minivan family. I'm in denial about it - but come December I am sure there will be one in our driveway.
Lastly, pictures...because I am too tired to put them next to their bullet point and some may have nothing to do with this post at all...it is what it is...my babes and our house :) Until next time...in September :)
The house:
Lovely Lucy's room:
Precious Peter's room:
The kitchen:
Living Room / TV / Playroom:
Desk wall :) :
"Sitting room" --> P calls it the talking place, just inside the front door
Kids bathroom:
Clearly we are missing the laundry room, guest room, master bed and bath. Whoops. Thought I took pictures, but I didn't.
And now pictures of what we have been up to the last few months!
L finding it difficult to ride in the grass that P pushed her into
7:15am. It has been raining for 7 days.
T and P on a toddler walk
L being L
P loves water / sand toys
P leading L gently through the overpass at the science center
silly face
loving our new sunglasses at yay yay and granddads
The last few are some of my favorites since they are of Uncle RBDIII visiting us in his helicopter! Awesome adventure.
pictures from my phone:
Mr. Conductor is pumped about his train and the forest he built.
The water is freezing, but L will not be deterred. We're at the Pancake House at Deleon Springs.
This is not a bad way to spend your afternoon.
This, on the otherhand, is more strenuous.
and here, I've have basically given up for the day. Look at how much fun they are having!
Some friends invited us to the beach for the day - it was overcast the whole time, but the kids didn't care a bit.
Pool time at the beach.

She does whatever he does - no matter what it is.



Hooray for the 4th of July!
Until next time! But I promise, at least 2 more times before the baby arrives! :) Side note: This actually did take me all day to write - so like all of my posts, I am not editing. At all. So there.
Saturday, July 13
Switzerland
All:
I'm sitting in my Swiss Hotel Bed watching the BBC and avoiding packing for the time being. I mention this only because since I am posting about my travels to Switzerland, this becomes my fastest post-travel blog ever.
Let's cut to the chase: My team WON!! The whole competition! My Rollins College team of 4 students beat out MBA students from 31 other schools to become the victors of the first ever Nespresso Sustainability challenge. Talk about an excellent reward for many, many hours of hard work. Nespresso pulled out all the stops during the 3-day event. (UPDATE: Missed the window for fastest post-travel blog ever since it is now a few weeks later.)
After arriving in Geneva, Switzerland after a long flight, a Nespresso representative met me and my teammate, Morgan to give us our train tickets and a map of Lausanne so that we could direct ourselves to the hotel. Immediately I was amazed at the hospitality and friendliness of everyone we would encounter this week. Morgan and I navigated the train ride fine and walked the 5 minute walk toward the lake. Although we were desperately curious to go exploring we thought it best to nap for an hour or so while we waited for the others. Semi-well rested, we met up with the Canadian team to head out for a chocolate tasting. oh. em. gee. The Swiss do not mess around with their chocolate. Although the tasting was excellent, the best part of this adventure was the making of our own filled chocolates. I chose a dark chocolate shell, learned to make ganache (put a little whiskey in it too, mom), stuffed it with caramel & sea salt, caramel & hazelnut, whiskey ganache & chili powder, and dark chocolate ganache with candied orange. It was amazing. After the tasting, we headed back to the hotel and walked next door for a fondue dinner.
Dinner was hilariously long. The food took a while and our faces were probably priceless when we learned it would be fondue. Don't get me wrong, its not that we weren't excited about fondue, its just that we were so incredibly tired that the last thing we wanted was cheese, bread, and to cook our own meat. Still, delicious and really fun to relax with my Crummer teammates. The other teams seemed to be concerned that our "coach" hadn't arrived in Switzerland yet (we were not worried) and were way more focused on talking about sustainability aspects during dinner. My team gossiped. Like, high school gossip. It was awesome, and relaxing and just what we needed prior to the long day that lay ahead.
The morning of the event we all loaded the bus and headed to Nespresso headquarters. After a quick tour of the building and the room in which we would be delivering our presentations we headed back to the "modern building" to practice. Our first practice was horrendous. Like, really, really terrible. It was much too long, some of us forgot what we were going to say, some of our technology wasn't working. We all went into our own version of crisis management. One got angry, one micromanaged, one pretended, one fidgeted. Thankfully, things got better. After a cafeteria style lunch (and many Nespressos) we learned that our team would be presenting first. Yes! The Nespresso team led us to the older building and introduced us to the audience.
Intimidating is not a powerful enough word for people who were in attendance. See the link for a complete list of judges: http://sustainabilitymbachallenge.com/participants-guide/. Seriously, go check it out. In the midst of our presentation, we discovered that we could see our slides on the left wall, just behind the judges. You have no idea how much this made us relax for some reason. It also allowed us to showcase information we had kept in an appendix, to show just in case the judges asked the questions we thought they would. The 30 minute question and answer session seemed to go on forever and the room got hotter and hotter. Few people believe me, but I seem to have an out of body experience in these things. I rarely show how nervous I am and I often don't remember exactly what I said. Thank. Goodness. The "cocktail" party we were promised after all presentations had been finished was a little not as billed - mocktails. We just had a few more nespressos and tried to mingle as best we could. When they announced our names as winners the world revolved in slow motion. We were so shocked but managed to make our way to the stage to accept our trophies and have our picture taken. Then the gifts and congratulations just kept on coming. We gave interviews for some press materials, mingled with the judges, and kept grinning at each other like fools.

Celebrations just kept coming so I'll try to let the pictures do the talking (except the quality is pretty terrible. Will update later or just go see me on instagram). We did some exploring after the competition, got over by the lake, walked up and down the narrow and steep streets, ate crepes, bought swiss army souvenirs. Just grinned. And laughed. And Explored. It was one of the best experiences of my life. The event will culminate in a trip to Colombia set for the beginning of September. The lesson here: hard work really does pay off.
I'm sitting in my Swiss Hotel Bed watching the BBC and avoiding packing for the time being. I mention this only because since I am posting about my travels to Switzerland, this becomes my fastest post-travel blog ever.
Let's cut to the chase: My team WON!! The whole competition! My Rollins College team of 4 students beat out MBA students from 31 other schools to become the victors of the first ever Nespresso Sustainability challenge. Talk about an excellent reward for many, many hours of hard work. Nespresso pulled out all the stops during the 3-day event. (UPDATE: Missed the window for fastest post-travel blog ever since it is now a few weeks later.)
After arriving in Geneva, Switzerland after a long flight, a Nespresso representative met me and my teammate, Morgan to give us our train tickets and a map of Lausanne so that we could direct ourselves to the hotel. Immediately I was amazed at the hospitality and friendliness of everyone we would encounter this week. Morgan and I navigated the train ride fine and walked the 5 minute walk toward the lake. Although we were desperately curious to go exploring we thought it best to nap for an hour or so while we waited for the others. Semi-well rested, we met up with the Canadian team to head out for a chocolate tasting. oh. em. gee. The Swiss do not mess around with their chocolate. Although the tasting was excellent, the best part of this adventure was the making of our own filled chocolates. I chose a dark chocolate shell, learned to make ganache (put a little whiskey in it too, mom), stuffed it with caramel & sea salt, caramel & hazelnut, whiskey ganache & chili powder, and dark chocolate ganache with candied orange. It was amazing. After the tasting, we headed back to the hotel and walked next door for a fondue dinner.
Dinner was hilariously long. The food took a while and our faces were probably priceless when we learned it would be fondue. Don't get me wrong, its not that we weren't excited about fondue, its just that we were so incredibly tired that the last thing we wanted was cheese, bread, and to cook our own meat. Still, delicious and really fun to relax with my Crummer teammates. The other teams seemed to be concerned that our "coach" hadn't arrived in Switzerland yet (we were not worried) and were way more focused on talking about sustainability aspects during dinner. My team gossiped. Like, high school gossip. It was awesome, and relaxing and just what we needed prior to the long day that lay ahead.
The morning of the event we all loaded the bus and headed to Nespresso headquarters. After a quick tour of the building and the room in which we would be delivering our presentations we headed back to the "modern building" to practice. Our first practice was horrendous. Like, really, really terrible. It was much too long, some of us forgot what we were going to say, some of our technology wasn't working. We all went into our own version of crisis management. One got angry, one micromanaged, one pretended, one fidgeted. Thankfully, things got better. After a cafeteria style lunch (and many Nespressos) we learned that our team would be presenting first. Yes! The Nespresso team led us to the older building and introduced us to the audience.
Intimidating is not a powerful enough word for people who were in attendance. See the link for a complete list of judges: http://sustainabilitymbachallenge.com/participants-guide/. Seriously, go check it out. In the midst of our presentation, we discovered that we could see our slides on the left wall, just behind the judges. You have no idea how much this made us relax for some reason. It also allowed us to showcase information we had kept in an appendix, to show just in case the judges asked the questions we thought they would. The 30 minute question and answer session seemed to go on forever and the room got hotter and hotter. Few people believe me, but I seem to have an out of body experience in these things. I rarely show how nervous I am and I often don't remember exactly what I said. Thank. Goodness. The "cocktail" party we were promised after all presentations had been finished was a little not as billed - mocktails. We just had a few more nespressos and tried to mingle as best we could. When they announced our names as winners the world revolved in slow motion. We were so shocked but managed to make our way to the stage to accept our trophies and have our picture taken. Then the gifts and congratulations just kept on coming. We gave interviews for some press materials, mingled with the judges, and kept grinning at each other like fools.
Celebrations just kept coming so I'll try to let the pictures do the talking (except the quality is pretty terrible. Will update later or just go see me on instagram). We did some exploring after the competition, got over by the lake, walked up and down the narrow and steep streets, ate crepes, bought swiss army souvenirs. Just grinned. And laughed. And Explored. It was one of the best experiences of my life. The event will culminate in a trip to Colombia set for the beginning of September. The lesson here: hard work really does pay off.
Thursday, June 6
Moving on Up. . .
Major movements in my life, readers! A few highlights:
Graduation: I finished the MBA program at Crummer in late April and graduated with my classmates the first week of May. Since it was my 4th graduation (yes, I am starting to be over-educated) I really wasn't all that excited to attend. But my classmates (and friends) were so excited it was contagious and it was nice that they wanted me to be there so bad. They are good people. Senator Bill Nelson was the commencement speaker so I was naturally interested. The significant time spent on ensuring that we knew the importance of the business code of ethics was a bit boring and unwelcome though. I mean, as of yet, we hadn't committed any ethical business violations so why were we subject to a lecture better suited for the guys who ended up being jailed for it? Still, Senator Nelson is an awesome Senator and Floridian, and an astronaut, so I like him. P and L weren't big fans though. Too much sitting for them after all the people in the funny hats processed in. Hilariously, when LDL had to get up to walk the kids out my classmates all turned around to stare at me. As if to make sure that I was actually still sitting with the graduate and not up in the stands. LDL and I still aren't convinced we look that much alike but I just we could just be in denial.
Travel: Just after graduation my Nespresso Case team found out that we had earned a place in the Top 3 of the competition. What's that you ask? We signed up for an additional work load during the last semester of our business school curriculum. This sounds like a terrible idea, until I tell you that as a member of the Top 3, I earned an all-expenses paid trip to Nestle headquarters in Lausanne, Switzerland. Woot Woot!! We have to essentially memorize the 20 page case brief, our own 12 page business proposal, create a dynamic and original presentation, and try to keep our cool as we present the idea to the executive team at Nespresso. I'm actually more nervous about making the presentation in front of Crummer faculty. I know them; they know me. Presentations (aka standing in front of a room full of people staring at you) are definitely out of my comfort zone. That is all a minor, minor worry. Switzerland or bust. I'll post pictures when I return!
Employment: Who would have thunk it? Things moved fairly quickly once the ball got rolling. Even though this is a very exciting and important thing, I found it to be a fairly anxiety-producing process. After all, I was being pursued by two companies who couldn't have been more different from each other. After hemming and hawing (probably for too long in the mind of the employer) I decided that I would be happiest and could grow as a professional best at a small, boutique consulting firm here in Central Florida. I've been working for 2 weeks and couldn't be more thrilled with the direction things are heading. The work is interesting, I am good at what I do, I like the team, and I am learning quite a bit. Not to mention, I get to travel to make presentations (will learn to like them?), meet clients, and do general project management. All is well here. (the weekly paycheck does not hurt)
Living Space: Minor update here, but since I have finished school and am gainfully employed (and 31 years old), I felt like it was time to move out of my parents house. Luckily, they have an apartment in downtown Orlando that they had been renting to another tenant. That tenant ended her lease at exactly the same time I was interested in moving. After a tense (not really) negotiation with the landlords, I was accepted as the new tenant for June. I love nesting and can't wait to get the furniture that has traveled across the country and back with me up to an urban apartment here in Orlando. Time to bust out my kitchen supplies and make more than a few trips to The Container Store!
"Many are the plans in a man's heart, but it is the Lord's purpose that prevails."
Proverbs 19:21
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| Elle, Vidhika, Maisa, Negar, Liz, and me |
| Generic Google image. I think it is Lausanne. |
| Google Image of Lake Eola, Downtown Orlando |
"Many are the plans in a man's heart, but it is the Lord's purpose that prevails."
Proverbs 19:21
Sunday, May 12
Here's Looking at You, Morocco
In March twenty-one schoolmates from Harvard Kennedy School (HKS) and I left the Cambridge cold for the North Africa gateway to the West: Morocco.
Originally Morocco was known as Mauritania. The Amizagh traded with Phoenicians via the Mediterranean to the north and Carthaginians via the Saharan interior to the east before being occupied by the Romans. The Romans called the western end of their empire Mauritania Tingitana with its capital in Volubilis, which eventually lost importance leading to Tangiers becoming the capital. Religions were Christianity and Judaism, though the majority of Berbers maintained cultural paganism, until the Arabic conquests in the 7th century when the major organized religion became Islam.
The Arabs called Morocco al-magrib (the West). Incidentally, inhabitants of the Maghreb (the great Arab West, at one time encompassing all of North Africa) were known as Moors. Arab occupied Spain was included in the Maghreb which is why Spanish Muslims were called Moors by Christians during the Crusades.
The Berbers revolted and Morocco devolved into statelets led by local rulers following locally defined versions of Islam. Local rulers were replaced and consolidated as major dynasties gained and lost power, until the Alaouite dynasty gained power in 1631, claiming to be descendant from the prophet Mohammed. The Arab Alaouite sultans attempted to foster trade especially with Europe, but got entangled with continental conflicts which eventually resulted in Morocco becoming a French protectorate from 1912-1953. Mohammed V was the exiled sultan during French occupation and established the Kingdom of Morocco upon gaining independence.
Why this long history? Morocco is a very diverse country. Berbers, roman descendants, Arabs, European expatriates and Jewish refugees all make up multiple groups of “natives.” Though the truthful locals make it known that inter-religious violence is not tolerated by order of the king, it is interesting to see multiple forms of Islam coexisting with multiple forms of Judaism alongside Christianity. Despite having many political rulers, the Berbers are fiercely independent and proud that they have never been “conquered." Even during the French protectorate, Morocco has acted very independently, sort of just allowing these outsiders to believe they are in charge.
Moroccans are very proud of their social and religious diversity (part of their national anthem includes “land of tolerance”) which they feel was most embodied historically by their ability to remain resilient and defiant of the Vichy French and Axis powers during World War II. As made famous in the movie (though the movie was shot in Tangier) Moroccan port cities, especially Casablanca, became the last available point of debarkation for continental European refugees. Gaining independence from France was the last effort in expelling the remnants of the Vichy influence. All this aside, the fact that Moroccans are most proud of telling is that in 1777 Morocco was the very first country to recognize the independence and establishment of the United States of America.
Okay, on to the fun stuff. I included this background because everything we saw, whether it was a souk, a garden, a mosque, a palace or a casbah, has multiple layers of stories and it is impossible to tell them all.
Marrakech
We landed in Casablanca and immediately boarded a bus to start our trek to Marrakech. Marrakech is home to Jamma el Fna, one of the largest Berber souks (market), the Saadian dynasty royal tombs, the Ben Youssef Mederesa (religious school), El Bahia Palace and is one of the most important of the four former imperial cities. We also saw the Koutoubia Mosque, the Mellah (an old Jewish quarter) and Jardin Marjorelle, a global garden created by a French artist Jacques Marjorelle. We also scooter toured the city including the medina (old city) and were treated to some amazing dinners with entertainment!
Ouarzazate
We drove from Marrakech over the High Atlas Mountains at its highest peak, Tizin Tichka. The land went from urban to arable flatland to mountainous in the course of a couple hours driving. After the High Atlas we descended into the Valley of the Casbahs. Casbahs are forts, and this valley was known to be especially lawless, requiring each locality to have its own protected area. we then entered Ouarzazate, known as the door of the desert, but also as the film capital of Morocco. Many movies were filmed in and around the town, especially as the UNESCO World Heritage Site, the fortified village (ksar) of Ait Benhaddou. Lawrence of Arabia, The Living Daylights, The Last Temptation of Christ, Indiana Jones and the Raiders of the Lost Ark, Gladiator, and even some scenes of the current show Game of Thrones were all filmed here.
Merzouga
We were led by two classmates, one a native Moroccan and one a French-Moroccan. Our group represented 15 countries (Brazil, Canada, Colombia, Chile, China, Cuba, India, France, Germany, Morocco, Peru, Singapore, Thailand, Peru, United States) and spoke 11 languages (Arabic, English, French, German, Hebrew, Hindi, Mandarin, Portuguese, Spanish, Tamil, Thai).
Short History of Morocco
Native Moroccans are known as Amazigh, or as the Romans called them, Berber, meaning barbarian. Natives are most commonly known as Berber, and their language is also called Berber which has five major dialects. The official and most common language is an Arabic dialect called Darija. Almost all government officials and major businesses speak French as well. It was not uncommon in the souks (traditional Berber market) to hear Arabic, French, Spanish, Italian, and English all from the locals.
Originally Morocco was known as Mauritania. The Amizagh traded with Phoenicians via the Mediterranean to the north and Carthaginians via the Saharan interior to the east before being occupied by the Romans. The Romans called the western end of their empire Mauritania Tingitana with its capital in Volubilis, which eventually lost importance leading to Tangiers becoming the capital. Religions were Christianity and Judaism, though the majority of Berbers maintained cultural paganism, until the Arabic conquests in the 7th century when the major organized religion became Islam.
The Arabs called Morocco al-magrib (the West). Incidentally, inhabitants of the Maghreb (the great Arab West, at one time encompassing all of North Africa) were known as Moors. Arab occupied Spain was included in the Maghreb which is why Spanish Muslims were called Moors by Christians during the Crusades.
The Berbers revolted and Morocco devolved into statelets led by local rulers following locally defined versions of Islam. Local rulers were replaced and consolidated as major dynasties gained and lost power, until the Alaouite dynasty gained power in 1631, claiming to be descendant from the prophet Mohammed. The Arab Alaouite sultans attempted to foster trade especially with Europe, but got entangled with continental conflicts which eventually resulted in Morocco becoming a French protectorate from 1912-1953. Mohammed V was the exiled sultan during French occupation and established the Kingdom of Morocco upon gaining independence.
Why this long history? Morocco is a very diverse country. Berbers, roman descendants, Arabs, European expatriates and Jewish refugees all make up multiple groups of “natives.” Though the truthful locals make it known that inter-religious violence is not tolerated by order of the king, it is interesting to see multiple forms of Islam coexisting with multiple forms of Judaism alongside Christianity. Despite having many political rulers, the Berbers are fiercely independent and proud that they have never been “conquered." Even during the French protectorate, Morocco has acted very independently, sort of just allowing these outsiders to believe they are in charge.
Moroccans are very proud of their social and religious diversity (part of their national anthem includes “land of tolerance”) which they feel was most embodied historically by their ability to remain resilient and defiant of the Vichy French and Axis powers during World War II. As made famous in the movie (though the movie was shot in Tangier) Moroccan port cities, especially Casablanca, became the last available point of debarkation for continental European refugees. Gaining independence from France was the last effort in expelling the remnants of the Vichy influence. All this aside, the fact that Moroccans are most proud of telling is that in 1777 Morocco was the very first country to recognize the independence and establishment of the United States of America.
Okay, on to the fun stuff. I included this background because everything we saw, whether it was a souk, a garden, a mosque, a palace or a casbah, has multiple layers of stories and it is impossible to tell them all.
We landed in Casablanca and immediately boarded a bus to start our trek to Marrakech. Marrakech is home to Jamma el Fna, one of the largest Berber souks (market), the Saadian dynasty royal tombs, the Ben Youssef Mederesa (religious school), El Bahia Palace and is one of the most important of the four former imperial cities. We also saw the Koutoubia Mosque, the Mellah (an old Jewish quarter) and Jardin Marjorelle, a global garden created by a French artist Jacques Marjorelle. We also scooter toured the city including the medina (old city) and were treated to some amazing dinners with entertainment!
| The only Arabic word I can read. I think its "Share canoe in case of flood" |
| Prepping for our Berber horseman show dinner |
| Berber "medieval times" |
| Amazing what a few dirham will buy |
| Fist pumping at the Euro-style clubs |
| Mugging at Jardin Marjorelle |
| Best way to tour the city |
| Monkeying around in Jamma el Fna |
| Koutboubia Mosque |
| Berber Whiskey - warm sweet tea with mint (no actual whiskey) |
| Gate to the Medina |
We drove from Marrakech over the High Atlas Mountains at its highest peak, Tizin Tichka. The land went from urban to arable flatland to mountainous in the course of a couple hours driving. After the High Atlas we descended into the Valley of the Casbahs. Casbahs are forts, and this valley was known to be especially lawless, requiring each locality to have its own protected area. we then entered Ouarzazate, known as the door of the desert, but also as the film capital of Morocco. Many movies were filmed in and around the town, especially as the UNESCO World Heritage Site, the fortified village (ksar) of Ait Benhaddou. Lawrence of Arabia, The Living Daylights, The Last Temptation of Christ, Indiana Jones and the Raiders of the Lost Ark, Gladiator, and even some scenes of the current show Game of Thrones were all filmed here.
| Chivin' on St Paddy's on top of the Atlas Mountains |
| Looking over Ait Benhaddou |
| One picture of all the males. The ladies were hogging the pics. |
| Contemplating the best way to ford the river. |
| Partial Film List |
| Simba was unavailable |
| Might have actually been sleeping while this was taken |
| Two man integrity on all weapons |
More driving from Ourzazate to Merzouga, a town on the edge of the Sahara desert. A lot of the trip was seen "along the way" in a style LTD would much appreciate. We saw the Berber town of Azrou, famously known for its carpets on our way to camel rides in the Sahara dunes. One of the best night sof the trip was spent sleeping in tents under the Saharan stars. It was romantic enough that two of our trekkers got engaged that evening. Much wine was had, many stories were told. The highlight of the night, at least for my travel mates, was me trying to communicate with our Berber guides through a mix of Arabic, Spanish and Italian. I was actually amazed at how successful we were, though I'm pretty sure they just thought I was crazy.
| Post-lunch soccer in the gorge |
| Kheterra system of wells bringing water from the mountains to the desert |
| Riding out to the campsite |
| Saharan sunset |
| Newly engaged (after some help from us) |
| Storytelling |
| We replaced Berber whiskey with real wine |
| The sunrise was awesome... |
| But was the hangover worth it? |
| Our campsite |
| Best pic of the trek |
Errachidia, Midelt, Middle Atlas Mountains, Ifrane
We left the Sahara for the long drive to Fes. We broke it up by spending the night in Midelt. Along the way we learned about the kheterra well system, preventing desertification of arable land, and the life of a date palm and its delicious fruit, dates. By the way, if you eat a date in the U.S. 8 times of of 10 its from Morocco. The big delicious ones CMD finds in California? Moroccan. This region is called Tafilalet, and its main town, Errachidia, was once an obligatory stop for gold and salt caravans - the last stop before trekking the Sahara east and southward. I like Midelt a lot, it had the feel of a frontier town, and the Berber inhabitants were very gracious to the two of us that ventured out on our own after dark. Our interactions with these locals was a highlight of the trip. We also passed through Ifrane, a ski town in the Middle Atlas mountains after spending the night in Midelt and before arriving in Fez.
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| There are male palms and female palms. Believe it or not, natural wind pollination required to produce dates is rare. Pollination is done by hand in order to create a profitable yield. |
| In Florida we want to keep the sand on the beach to prevent erosion. The same "technology" is used to keep the desert away from arable land in an attempt to prevent desertification. |
| This women's cooperative was learning how to better package and market the date yield rather than selling raw fruit at cheaper prices. |
| High on life. And dates. And Berber whiskey. Sugar overload. |
| Signing the guest book with a Harvard stamp. |
Fes
Fes is the spiritual heart of Morocco. It is hard to describe this city, you just sort of get surrounded by it. Bustling urban areas in the new city, souks in the old city, and the smallest alleys I've ever seen in the oldest part of the city. Fez el Bali, the world's largest living Islamic medieval city, is Morocco's first World Heritage Site and the largest car-free urban environment on the planet. We saw the Kairouine Mosque and University, the Chouwara Tannery, the Bou Inania Medersa: Bou Inania Medersa. The pictures barely capture our experience there.
| Fez looking North |
| Fez looking South |
| King Mohammad VI's palace gates |
| Jewish Quarter |
| School let out as we walked through the old city |
| Gate to the Medina |
| Outdoor Mosque |
| The Tannery |
| Making tajins |
| Hand hammering out tiles |
| Pickup futbol after school |
Rabat
Rabat is the administration capital, very cosmopolitan and European. We met with administration officials and private sector innovators here and in Casablanca, and they were very informative on how to continue Morocco's peaceful growth, continuing democratization, and focusing on their African neighbors for the future versus Europe. We saw Chellah, and ancient Roman site, the remains of the Hassan mosque, and the Alaouite kings mausoleum in between our meetings.
| Hassan unfinished mosque minaret |
| Mausoleum |
| The kings are well taken care of |
| Old mosque wall framing the Hassan minaret |
| Sort of the Arlington for the Alaouite kings |
| Rabat would have been LTD's favorite, as it is the Blue City |
| Joking on the port fort wall |
| Gate to the King's Rabat palace, where the administration works. No pictures inside. We're VIP. |
Casablanca
Now we've come full circle back to the White City of Casablanca. A old pirate lair, Casablanca is now the economic capital of Morocco. Unfortunately we experienced our only bad weather here, but we were still able to see the Hassan II mosque, and we had a cocktail at Rick's (even though its the fake Rick's, the real one is in Tangiers - remember, from about 2000 words ago?) We rounded the trip off with a raucous night in a lounge which seemed to love our business. As we departed we were told that is was a laid back place, and no one else had ever shouted songs or house-danced like maniacs. Our international group departed just as we left: in style.
| Mohammed V Square clock tower |
| The Hassan II Mosque |
| The roof of the mosque is retractable like a stadium - seriously. |
| Washroom for cleansing before prayer |
| Casablanca Light |
| My Arabic, Hindi, and Portuguese teachers (I received an F in each) |
| Our guide, driver, and helper stuck with us through it all. |
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| Papers secured, gin in hand, ready to depart via Lisbon |
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